ginger jeans #1

The last pair of jeans I bought was from Uni Qlo back in 2015. After 4 years of constant wear, they are starting to show their age, by coming apart at the point of most stress.. my inner thigh. I’ll still wear the jeans around the house or in the garden, but I think I need to retire them from public outings.

I, like so many sewists, have wanted to make a pair of jeans for a long time, and my RTW pair dying was the push I needed. I turned to the most trusted and most tested jean pattern I know of; The Ginger Jeans from Closet Case Patterns.

This pattern has been sitting in my stash for about 2 years now, and I’m so happy I finally got around to using it. I remembered that I had bought the zipper fly hardware kit from CC, so all I needed to get was the denim and the topstitching thread.

Heather from CC has a very in-depth blog post about sourcing denim, and on her recommendation, I looked for a denim that had a bit of polyester in it. I settled on a denim from M.Recht. It’s their “Stretch Denim Art: MRA001″, 10oz and 55” (140cm) wide. The composition is 68.5% cotton, 1.5% elastane and 30% polyester.

I pre-washed the denim, and saw a lot of dye come out (which is normal). The colour is still very blue, and I’m excited to see how is wears over the next 6 – 12 months.

MMM_Ginger 08

Based off the pattern measurements, I cut a 10 at the waist and graded to a 14 at the hip. After I basted the jeans together to test the fit, I shortened the crotch slightly, and the leg by 5cm. At this point I also tapered the ankle to a size 12, but I think I could even go down to a 10 here.

MMM_Ginger 05

MMM_Ginger 06

I had such a great time installing the fly front! Heather’s written instructions are so good, and just taking it step by step makes for a wonderful, professional finish.

MMM_Ginger 10

MMM_Ginger 03

I also had a great time designing my back pockets. First I drew out something with lots of curves, but I ended up liking a straighter design. I like it so much I might use it for all my jeans in the future (because we all know… there will be more jeans).

MMM_Ginger 04

I must admit, I did struggle getting a clean cap on my rivets. I had to trim down the post on all of my rivets, and I broke through the cap 6 times out of 7. Here you can see my first rivet (on the coin pocket) and the last (on the pocket). The key is to trim that sucker almost flush with the denim. It feels like there won’t be anything for the cap to grip onto, but it’s the only way to not bust through them. I’m certain I’ll do better on my next pair.

MMM_Ginger 09

My machine handled several layers of denim and topstitching wonderfully. I was nervous about bar-tacking the belt loops on, but I just went slowly and everything worked out really well (I also used Heather’s hack of gluing them on first). The only place I didn’t use the topstitching thread was for the button hole. I know from previous experience that my machine doesn’t like it, so I used a matching regular thread instead.

MMM_Ginger 11

I have to give a shout out to my wonderful Dad, who crafted this clapper for me out of a scrap of hardwood. This thing is heavy; those grooves in the sides really help when picking it up. I was shocked how well this worked to help flatten seams! After running the iron over a seam, you place this on top (I also added a generous amount of pressure), and leave it for a few seconds. Take it off, and you’re left with a beautiful, crisp, flat seam! I think it really elevated the finished look of my jeans.

GARMENT DETAILS:

  • Pattern brand/name/number: Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns
  • Style, size: High rise version with the skinny leg, size 10 at waist, 14 at hips and 12 at ankles
  • Fabric: Stretch denim from M.Recht, cotton lining from stash scraps
  • Notions:
    • Zipper fly hardware kit in Gold from Closet Case Patterns
    • Gütermann topstitch thread, colour 893
    • Gütermann general thread, navy 310
  • Modifications/alterations:
    • Graded from a 10 at the waist, to a 14 at the hips, and down to a 12 at the ankles
    • Shortened crotch length by 3mm
    • Shortened leg length by 5cm (could possibly take off another 3cm)

MMM_Ginger 07

I know I say this about everything I sew, but I looooooove these! I am so impressed with the fit! I normally have a lot of trouble getting jeans to fit my thighs, but also fit the small of my back without leaving a huge gaping waistband. These are pretty close to perfection.

I already want to make about 3 more pairs!

Mitty x

40 year old skirt to jacket

About 8 years ago, my grandmother gave me a lovely, hand embroidered skirt. She told me that it was a gift from her friend in New Delhi, Swaran, and the skirt was at least 40 years old. As beautiful as it was, I never actually wore it.

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 01

The style was simply a straight waistband with a gathered rectangle for the skirt, and a side closure. The fabric was a basic navy cotton, but the stand out feature (obviously) is all that beautiful, hand embroidery.

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 02

I feel like the embroidery itself has been done in silk; it is very soft but the fibres aren’t spun together, so the fly-aways do tend to make it look a bit hairy. Just for added sparkle, there are little circular mirrors scattered among the embroidery!

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 05

I couldn’t have this glorious piece of work hiding in my stash anymore, so I decided to up-cycle it. Before I ripped any seams, I went over the embroidery and tidied up all the hairy bits by threading them to the back. Some bits that were too short to work with got a very careful trim. Then I unpicked the hem, waistband, and the single side seam.

I decided on a very simple, Channel-style jacket. I couldn’t have darts eating into the beautiful embroidery. I already had the perfect pattern in my library; New Look 6496.

At the start of the year I learnt a very hard lesson about not making a toile (the Tully pants that I made from some gorgeous Pitt Trading linen were way too small!). I didn’t want to repeat that disaster, so I happily made a quick toile to test the fit. The only alteration I made was to split the single-pieced sleeve into a two-piece sleeve.

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 06

Once happy with the fit, I carefully placed the front panels, paying close attention to where those little mirrors lay. To help the silk threads stay in place (and to add a bit of structure) I used iron-on interfacing on the back side of all the pieces.

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 04

Even with the stabilisation, the cotton fabric seemed quite thin, so I hunted through my stash for something to use as a warm inter-lining. I found some merino wool that I bought from The Fabric Store a few years ago. I had previously attempted to make a mens t-shirt from it, and failed miserably. I’m so glad I kept this failure, because there was just enough to cut up and use inside this jacket.

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 07

I simply hand basted the merino wool to the cotton, to act as one piece. I also tacked it together in a few central places in case the merino wanted to sag inside the jacket.

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 08

In the spirit of using as much of the original fabric as possible, I had to do a bit off-cut piecing together. You can see on the right hand side facing where I had to sew two bits together. I’m really not fussed by it, and I honestly think a few quirky seams adds to the character of the jacket.

With the jacket shell sewn together, all I had left to do was draft a lining (because it’s not included in the pattern). I followed this amazing tutorial by Jen from Grainline Studios. If you ever need to draft a lining, follow this tutorial! It’s so simply explained! However, I worked off the one piece sleeve for the lining, I didn’t have the brain power to figure out how to do a two piece sleeve lining.

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 13

Pattern drafted, I fully expected to have to purchase some lining to finish this jacket. I’m so glad I looked through my scraps first, because I found just enough left over from a dress I made about 4 years ago. Again, I had to piece together a section for one sleeve, but I managed to cut the rest whole.

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 14

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 12

Instead of bagging out the lining, I sewed it straight to the facing. I was unsure about the correct finished measurements and felt that this gave me more control. I took my time and used hand sewing techniques (blind stitch) to finish the bottom hem and sleeve hems.

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 10

Finally, she was finished! I’m thrilled with the end result, I feel like I’ve given this textile a brand new life, with many years of wear to come.

I’ll leave you with some pictures we took down Katoomba’s Street Art Walk.

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 15

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 16

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 19

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 20

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 18

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 21

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 23

MMM_Skirt to Jacket 24

GARMENT DETAILS:

  • Pattern brand/name/number: New Look 6496
  • Style, size: View “A”, size 14
  • Fabric:
    • Outer shell – Navy cotton skirt with silk hand embroidery
    • Inter-lining – Merino wool from The Fabric Store
    • Lining – High quality poly lining left over from a previous project
  • Notions: Black iron-on interfacing from Spotlight
  • Modifications/alterations:
    • Changed the one piece sleeve to a two piece sleeve for the shell
    • Drafted a lining pattern (with a single piece sleeve)

Mitty x

40 year old velvet

Recently I was visiting my friend, Nicole, when she casually handed me a length of beautiful, emerald green velvet. She told me that it was her Grandmothers’, and it was at least 40 years old! To my horror, she said that she was going to cut it up for some cushion covers…

Just… no.

MMM_Velvet Skirt 01

So I did what any sewist in my position would have done, I offered to make her a skirt instead. We talked about the different styles that would best suit her personal aesthetic and the fabric, and decided on a below the knee length pencil skirt.

MMM_Velvet Skirt 02

I started with the Erin Skirt by Sew Over It as a reference pattern. I made a simple toile and shaped it to perfectly hug Nicoles curves. She asked me if I could sew the button placket closed so she didn’t have any “flashy” moments. I split the back piece into two, and installed an invisible zipper, so she could actually get into the skirt.

MMM_Velvet Skirt 03

We decided to omit the front pockets for a cleaner look, and reduce bulk. I also drafted a simple lining pattern, for comfort, and to extend the life of the skirt.

Nicole was absolutely thrilled with her skirt, but she was even happier when I managed to squeeze another one from the offcuts…

MMM_Velvet Mini 01

I adore this mini! I used the same modified pattern as the pencil skirt, but I had to split the front into three panels to fit the remaining fabric (impossible to see on the above picture!).

MMM_Velvet Mini 02

To add a little visual interest, I used an exposed trouser zipper for the back closure. I didn’t want the zipper to catch on Nicoles stockings, so I hand sewed in some grosgrain ribbon to act as a zipper shield.

MMM_Velvet Mini 05

Winter outfit, sorted!

GARMENT DETAILS:

  • Pattern brand/name/number: Erin Skirt by Sew Over It (available in the City Break Capsule collection)
  • Style/size: Started with a size 16, but took it in a lot
  • Fabric: Nicoles’ Grandmothers’ 40 year old velvet, anti-static lining from Spotlight, fusible interfacing for waistbands
  • Notions:
    • Pencil skirt: 35cm invisible zipper, 10 x 3cm wooden buttons from eBay
    • Mini skirt: 18cm trouser zipper
  • Modifications/alterations:
    • I fit the toile directly to Nicoles proportions, so I can’t remember the exact measurements, but I did end up taking it in a fair amount
    • Tapered the hem of the skirt quite a lot, leaving just enough room to walk comfortably
    • I sewed down the button placket and left off the button holes (I was going to put them in to help with the illusion but my button hole foot left too much damage on the velvet)
    • Merged the front and the pocket pattern pieces to make a single piece
    • Split the back piece into two so I could add in the invisible zipper
    • Drafted a lining pattern
    • For the mini skirt, I traced the front pattern piece so it would be cut on the fold, then I drew in the panel lines and traced off those pieces so I could add on seam allowance
    • Used an exposed trouser zipper for the back closure, with a grosgrain zipper shield
    • Shortened the length drastically for the mini skirt and the lining

Much better than cushion covers, don’t you agree?!

Mitty x

ruffle sleeve top

What could be better than a well drafted top pattern that includes beautiful finishing techniques?

MMM_Ruffle Top 01

Answer: a well drafted top pattern that includes beautiful finishing techniques that you can download for free!

MMM_Ruffle Top 02

This is the Ruffle Sleeve Top, designed by Emily from In The Folds, exclusively for Peppermint Magazine. Emily has such an amazing, clean aesthetic that really shines through her patterns, and I think it is very generous to offer them for free!

MMM_Ruffle Top 04

I shamelessly took a lot of inspiration from Amanda of Bimble & Pimble after seeing her ruffle sleeve top on Instagram. I purchased a pretty navy check cotton from Tessuti Fabrics and had this baby hanging in my wardrobe the next day.

MMM_Ruffle Top 06

I actually made this navy linen version first, you could call it my “wearable toile”. It’s one size up from the checkered top, and is probably a little big on me. The linen is so lovely and gets softer after every wear.

MMM_Ruffle Top 07

I mentioned before about beautiful finishing techniques. This pattern is sewn with French Seams! I’d never done a French Seam on a sleeve before, and I am thrilled with how clean it looks on the inside.

MMM_Ruffle Top 05

GARMENT DETAILS:

MMM_Ruffle Top 03

Love, love, LOVE this top! I already want to make a white version, maybe with an eyelet fabric for the ruffle sleeves (better pop it on the Spring Sewing List!).

Mitty x

3am cable hat

As much as I love sewing, it’s not something I like to do at night after my son has gone to bed. The light isn’t great, and I’m exhausted from a long day. I’d much prefer to sit on the lounge with a glass of wine, and knit!

You might not know this, but my first blog was all about knitting and crochet, I called it “This Girl Has Knits” which I thought was a very funny title. I moved over to MMM because I wanted to share more than just knitting.

MMM_Beanie 01

We are a few weeks into Autumn here in Australia, and the weather has (finally) started to cool down. It’s been a while since I’ve knit something, so I wanted to warm up that knitting-muscle-memory with a pattern I’ve made before.

MMM_Beanie 02

This pattern is the “3am cable hat” by Smariek Knits. It’s free and available on Ravelry (her user name is Smariek). It’s a beautiful little pattern, I absolutely adore a cable!

MMM_Beanie 03

The pattern calls for a regular pom-pom, but I wanted to step it up a bit. My mum is the creator of Blue Valley Bears, selling hand stitched bears, made from recycled vintage mink coats. She let me pick out this beautiful off-white fur, which I think is a nice tonal compliment to the cream wool.

MMM_Beanie 04

GARMENT DETAILS:

  • Pattern brand/name/number: 3am cable hat by Smariek Knits, available for free on Ravelry
  • Style/size: Measurements are unworn
    • Width of ribbing – 19cm
    • Length of ribbing – 10cm
    • Width of cable – 16cm
    • Length of cable – 18cm
  • Yarn: King Cole, Baby Alpaca DK (it must have been 2 balls worth, I’m not sure)
  • Notions: Recycled mink fur pom-pom
  • Modifications/alterations:
    • Using 4.00mm needles I used the long tail method to cast on 132 stitches, and joined to work in the round
    • I knit the 2 x 2 ribbing until it was 10cm (4 inches) long
    • Moved onto the cable pattern which I worked until the beanie measured 23cm (9 inches) from the cast on
    • Crown shaped as instructed

This beanie is lovely, fuzzy and soft, I am very happy with it. The pattern is simple and easy to follow, although I did have to look up how to do a few things (SSK… I know) because it’s been that long since I’ve done any knitting!

Now to make one for hubby!

Mitty x

 

 

elliot sweater in merino wool

I’m going to start by saying that this was the quickest sew I’ve had in a long time, and it was so refreshing! This was cut, sewn, pressed and hanging in my closet in about 3 hours. It was so quick, I might even make another one this afternoon!

MMM_Elliot 01

This is my brand new Elliot Sweater by Helen’s Closet, sewn up in a buttery soft, ash blue, premium 195gsm merino wool from The Fabric Store.

MMM_Elliot 06

This is such a well drafted pattern, and there are so many things I love about it. The raglan sleeve makes sewing a breeze, and the oversized style makes picking a size easy.

MMM_Elliot 02

The collar is soooo lovely! It’s just the right size, I don’t have to stretch it to get it over my head. It’s also slouchy enough that I don’t feel like I’m being strangled by my jumper.

MMM_Elliot 03

The high-low hem is just a dream, and the split is the perfect length for me. I really like how thick the hems are as well, I find it gives a bit of weight which makes it hang nicely.

 

MMM_Elliot 05

The great thing about this pattern is that Helen has included a few different variations. There is also a crop length, with a shorter collar, and a t-shirt version.

GARMENT DEATILS:

MMM_Elliot 07

Snuggly and warm is an understatement! I’m off to sew another!

Mitty x

 

 

oslo coat from 2017

We are officially in Autumn here in Australia, my favourite season! The weather is slowly cooling down, so I thought I’d show off one of my proudest makes.

Oslo Coat - Made by Mitty

This is the Oslo Coat by Tessuti Patterns. I actually made this back in 2017 when I was pregnant. It didn’t get any wear that year as I couldn’t do it up over my growing belly.

Oslo Coat - Made by Mitty

I loved this pattern for it’s sleek, modern look, and the shawl collar is such an awesome design feature.

Oslo Coat - Made by Mitty

I made my coat out of a 100% wool fabric from The Remnant Warehouse. I remember the tag saying that it was a “felted wool”, but I must be wrong as this fabric has a defined nap.

Oslo Coat - Made by Mitty

I also picked up my lining from The Remnant Warehouse. I went for the higher grade lining and I’m glad I did.

Oslo Coat - Made by MItty

This was my first time making a lined coat, and while the instructions are well written, my lining seemed too short in the arms. It pulled at the outer fabric so much that I had to fix it. I added about 2.5cm (plus seam allowance) to the cuff of my lining, which reduced the pulling and let the sleeve hang nicely.

Oslo Coat - Made by Mitty

I also ended up sewing my buttons a little closer to the front edges of the coat than instructed. I think I did this so I could button it up over my post-baby belly. However it does warp the collar a little, but it’s something I can live with.

Oslo Coat - Made by Mitty

GARMENT DETAILS

  • Pattern brand/name/number: Oslo Coat by Tessuti Patterns
  • Style, size: Size 10
  • Fabric: “Felted” wool and polyester lining from The Remnant Warehouse (I can’t find a link to either fabric)
  • Notions: 1 brass button for outside closure, 1 black plastic button for inside closure, fusing, thread
  • Modifications/alterations:
    • As mentioned, I had to add 2.5cm (plus seam allowance) length to the sleeve lining pieces so they didn’t pull and pucker the outer wool layer
    • I used a walking foot to sew the wool, I feel like it helped keep everything aligned

I am so proud of this coat, even more so when people ask where I got it from, and I smugly reply that I made it. You should make one too, so you can do the same!

Mitty x