Monthly Archives: October 2019

lander shorts

This time last year, our little family moved from Sydney to the Blue Mountains. It was a hectic time; my husband and I had quit our full-time jobs to run our own business; packing and unpacking an entire unit was exhausting enough, not to mention doing it with a 14 month old toddler… With all of this going on, I still (somehow) had time to sew!

MBM_Lander Shorts 04

These Landers were my first pair of me-made shorts. I had to grade between sizes for the perfect fit, and I’m glad I did. These are the most comfortable shorts I have ever worn.

MBM_Lander Shorts 02

Any pair of shorts I had ever bought RTW were always too tight around my thighs, to the point where I would have red marks on my legs after a days wear. As you can see, I have no such problem with the Landers.

MBM_Lander Shorts 03

This was also my first time sewing a button fly. The instructions are very well written, and it all came together very easily. I love the contrast between the olive linen and the blond colour of the buttons, it all feels very ‘natural’.

MBM_Lander Shorts 05

GARMENT DETAILS

  • Pattern brand/name/number: Lander Pants/Shorts by True Bias
  • Style, size: View A, 12 at the waist, graded to 14 at the hips
  • Fabric: 100% olive linen from The Remnant Warehouse, facing is leftover cotton from my stash
  • Notions: 4 blond wooden buttons, iron-on interfacing, matching thread
  • Modifications/alterations: 
    • As mentioned, the only change I made was to grade from a size 12 at the waist to a 14 at the hips

These shorts have seen a lot of wear over the last year, and it’s now finally warm enough to wear them again!

Mitty x

stellan x jarrah

Instagram is such a great place to share and showcase sewing inspiration. A great tag I love following is #youcanhackit, coined by Helen and Caroline from the Love To Sew podcast.

One such make I saw recently was from danica.made, where she mashed together the Stellan Tee (which you know I love), and the front tie from the Jarrah sweater.

Absolutely Amazing!

I simply had to try it out for myself.

MBM_Stellan X Jarrah 02

I went for a cropped length, not only because I thought it would pair beautifully with my new Pietra Pants, but also because I was cutting this project from a breastfeeding top that I never ended up finishing.

MBM_Stellan X Jarrah 03

I only had a very small amount of fabric to work with, and in the end, I did have to piece together two bits for one of the sleeves. I made sure to use a lot of pins to keep the stripes aligned, and for an extra measure, I used the walking foot on my machine so nothing moved around.

MBM_Stellan X Jarrah 04

I am in love with this tie front, it feels very Summery to me!

MBM_Stellan X Jarrah 07

I followed the Jarrah Sewalong on Megan Nielson’s website just so I could see the best way of finishing the points of these ties. It turns out that they are (sort of) a mitred corner. Megan explains how to sew them nicely, if you are interested.

MBM_Stellan X Jarrah 05

GARMENT DETAILS

  • Pattern brand/name/number: The Stellan Tee by French Navy mashed together with the Jarrah Sweater by Megan Nielsen
  • Style, size: Stellan size M, Jarrah size 10
  • Fabric: Jersey knit from Tessuti (ages ago..!)
  • Notions: Matching thread
  • Modifications/alterations:
    • Added the Jarrah tie front detail to the Stellan tee, quite high up to make it a cropped length t-shirt
    • Left the sleeve hem unfinished

That was a very quick, and satisfying project. Don’t you just love those?

Mitty x

pietra pants

When Heather from Closet Case Patterns released the Rome Collection, I knew there was one design in there that I had to make.

MBM_Pietra 01

The Pietra Pants! I had a pair of pants like these years ago, complete with the elastic back waist, smooth front and tapered legs. I wore them to death, and they didn’t fit half as well as these!

MBM_Pietra 03

In saying that, I did have a few fit issues to start with. I originally cut a size 14 at the hip and a 12 at the waist, hoping to avoid the extra step of adding in an invisible zipper. I should have cut a 10 at the waist right from the get-go. My first toile (toiles are not pictured) was baggy around the top, and there were some strange crotch whiskers (for lack of a better word), but the fit through the thigh was quite good.

MBM_Pietra 02

For my second toile, I took about 3cm from the front waist along the crotch and mid-thigh seams. I also took about 3cm from the back waist. I tried them on, and initially thought I had done a good job. A few hours went by and I looked at the fit much closer. Those crotch whiskers were worse, and the pants looked over-fitted.

MBM_Pietra 06

I sent some pictures to my pattern-drafting-friend-extraordinaire (aka Monica), asking for some advice. She suggested that I shouldn’t mess with the crotch seam, as taking out any amount here will change the curve, resulting in more whiskers.

 

MBM_Pietra 05

So I buckled down for my third toile. With Monica’s recommendations, I put 1/2cm back into the crotch seam at the waist, which straightened up that line. I also changed the angle of the crotch curve based off a pant block that Monica had drawn to fit me perfectly (I raised the front crotch by about 1cm). I also reduced the amount of ease I had taken out of the back waistband by adding in 1/2cm. Finally, I tried them on. They fit perfectly.

MBM_Pietra 08

To get the perfect fit, I needed an invisible zipper. The original drafted style is a pull-on pant, which is fine if you’re a straight size, but the difference between my waist and thigh is just too great for that to work. As it turns out, the zipper is pretty much invisible, and I’m thrilled with how it looks. Heather recently released a blog post on installing an invisible zipper into the pants, which I followed.

MBM_Pietra 07

I actually think this waistband is the most defining feature of the pants. It is SO comfortable, I can’t begin to tell you! I absolutely love it!

MBM_Pietra 09

I had the smallest scrap of bias binding made from leftover cotton chambray from a project long ago. It was exactly the right length to bind the edge of the waist-stay. This is such a clean way of finishing a raw edge, I think I’ll try to do it more often.

MBM_Pietra 04

GARMENT DETAILS

  • Pattern brand/name/number: Pietra Pants by Closet Case Patterns
  • Style, size: View B, 12 at waist, 14 at hip
  • Fabric: Textured Lyocell (70%) and Linen (30%) blend from Spotlight in the colour Brick
  • Notions: Invisible zipper (20cm), 5cm wide elastic from Spotlight, iron-on fusing, matching thread
  • Modifications/alterations:
    • Took 1/2cm from either side of the mid-thigh seam at the waistline, tapered off to nothing just above the pocket (adds up to 2cm across the front waist).
    • Adjusted the waist-stay pieces to match the alterations I made to the front.
    • Raised the crotch curve by roughly 1cm, and slightly changed the angle of the curve.
    • Took 1cm of ease out of the back by cutting down the grainline from the waist to the hem, leaving the pieces joined by a sliver. Pick up one piece and overlap it by 1cm from the cut edge on the other side (adds up to 2cm across the back waist). Tape down evenly.
    • Inserted an invisible zipper.
    • Shortened the leg length by 3cm using the lowest shorten/lengthen line.

I find fitting pants to be trial and error most of the time. Sometimes you nail the mods the first time around. Other times, you have to make 3 toiles.

Either way, I am so happy with my finished pair of pants! The fabric feels almost slubby, but has great movement and is very light. I have a feeling I’ll be wearing these pants all spring/summer long!

Mitty x

reusable face pads

I’ve just finished my third toile of the Pietra Pants, so I don’t have a finished garment to show you this week.

However, I thought I’d show you a small project that is always ticking along on the side. I love using my fabric scraps to their full potential (see my floor pouf!), so whenever I have a few bits of nicely printed cotton or linen hanging around, I turn them into reusable face pads.

MBM_Face Pads 01

These pads are fantastic for removing makeup, cleanser, or a face mask. They are also great for applying toner. Once you’ve used it, just chuck it in the wash with the rest of your towels, dry, and repeat!

MBM_Face Pads 02

For my template, I just traced around a jar lid (the circle ended up being 7cm in diameter). Then I cut 2 circles of fabric, one side is the cotton or linen, the other is a bamboo terry towelling I bought ages ago to make some bibs for my baby (you could use an old towel or face washer).

MBM_Face Pads 03

I like to secure the two sides together by stitching through both layers in an X pattern. Then, I simply zigzag stitch around the perimeter to prevent fraying.

This is such a great stash-busting project! It takes hardly any time, and the result means less waste in our landfills. Plus, they just feel luxurious!

Mitty x