how to: sew a french seam

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French seams are a very delicate and easy way to add a level of professionalism to your ‘MeMade’ items. This method encases the raw edge of the fabric inside the seam. I particularly like to use this seam when sewing with silks. I’ve used cotton in this example, but there is a silk picture to show you at the end of the post.

 First, you need a 1cm seam allowance to work with. Pin the fabric wrong sides together. This feels very unnatural, and I still have to concentrate during this step. It’s so easy to pick up the fabric and whack the right sides together.

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Sew down your seam 5mm away from the raw edge.

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Being very careful, trim away the seam allowance, getting as close to the stitches as you dare! I usually cut off around 3mm-4mm.

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Once the seam is trimmed, fold the fabric so that right sides are together, encasing the raw edge in the new seamSome people like to use an iron to get a very crisp fold, but I find working the seam out with my fingers is just as good.

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Pin, and stitch another seam, 5mm away from the sewn edge.

That’s it! You don’t have any raw fabric showing, which makes for a very tidy looking seam. Below is a picture of a French seam in silk organza. I’ve pressed this seam to one side to flatten it. I really love how the seam is visible through the sheer fabric.

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This is actually part of a very special dress that I’ve made.. You’ll see more of it in a few weeks time!

Mitty x

4 thoughts on “how to: sew a french seam

  1. Kate Marie

    Ooh I love this! I definitely have to do this when I start making clothing. It looks so much nicer than having the raw edges visible even on the inside.

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  2. Kathy Mckinney

    Love your work Sam, you are doing great. The tutorials are very detailed information with good pictures, beneficial to the experienced and novice sewers. I have only recently tried to put a blind zipper in. I will now try it with your method and I think the ironing tip will be good. Keep up the great work 😃

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